If you’ve ever heard someone mention "coily hair" and found yourself nodding along while secretly wondering, Wait, what are coils in hair exactly?, you’re not alone.
A lot of people throw the term around, but how do you define it? That’s where things get interesting. Are coils just curls by another name? Are they different from kinks?
Don’t worry—let’s break it down.
What Are Coils In Hair?
Simply put, coils are tight, springy curls that naturally form in certain hair textures, especially in Type 4 hair.
Unlike loose waves or bouncy ringlets, coils have a more compact, zig-zag or spiral shape that clumps together in small sections.
Think of them like tiny, stretched-out S’s or even miniature telephone cords (if you remember those).
Coily hair isn’t just about the shape, though—it’s also about the way it behaves. Coils tend to shrink when dry, sometimes making hair look way shorter than it actually is.
They also have a natural elasticity—pull them gently, and they’ll spring right back, almost like a slinky.
Natural Coiled Hair Type
But not all coils look the same. Some are super tight, almost forming tiny zigzags, while others wrap around themselves in little corkscrews.
That’s why you’ll often hear terms like 4A, 4B, and 4C—these classifications describe how tight or defined the coils are.
Here’s a simple breakdown:
4A Coils
These are the loosest of the bunch. Picture tiny, well-defined corkscrews with a visible curl pattern. If you stretch them out, they look like little spirals, kind of like the spring inside a pen.
4B Coils
This type has a more zigzag shape rather than a defined curl. Instead of spirals, the strands bend at sharp angles, making the texture look fluffy and voluminous.
4C Coils
The tightest and most densely packed of them all. 4C coils shrink the most, sometimes up to 75% of their actual length.
They don’t always clump together naturally, giving the hair a soft, cloud-like look.
Are Coils the Same Thing As Curls?
Nope, coils and curls are not the same thing. While both describe textured hair, curls are usually looser and form in ringlets, while coils are much tighter and more compact.
Think of curls like stretched-out springs and coils like tiny, bouncy zigzags or corkscrews.
And Coils tend to shrink more and may not always clump into defined curls without styling.
They also need more moisture since their tight pattern makes it harder for natural oils to travel down the strands.
How to Achieve Coily Hair?
If your hair isn’t naturally coily but you love the look, finger coils are one of the easiest ways to get those tight, springy spirals—no heat or fancy tools required.
All you need is your fingers, some styling product, and a little patience.
Step-by-Step Guide to Finger Coils:
- Start with Clean, Damp Hair – Wash and condition your hair as usual. Finger coils work best on damp, detangled hair, so grab a leave-in conditioner or curl cream for extra slip.
- Section Your Hair – The smaller the sections, the tighter the coils. Use clips to keep things organized.
- Apply a Styling Product – A curl-defining cream, gel, or mousse will help hold the shape. Smooth it through each section before coiling.
- Twist with Your Fingers – Take a small section of hair and twirl it around your finger from root to tip. Keep twisting until the hair naturally forms a coil.
- Let It Set – Air-dry or use a diffuser to speed things up. Once dry, separate the coils for more volume, or leave them as-is for a defined look.
How to Care for Coils?
Because of their tight structure, coils can be prone to dryness, shrinkage, and tangling.
But don’t worry! With the right routine, your coils will stay hydrated and happy.
1. Moisture Is Everything
Coils love moisture, but they also lose it fast. Hydrate regularly with water-based leave-in conditioners and follow up with oils or butters (like shea butter or jojoba oil) to seal it in. The LOC (Liquid, Oil, Cream) method works wonders.
2. Gentle Detangling Only
Dry detangling? A nightmare. Always detangle when your hair is damp and coated with conditioner. Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers to avoid breakage—coils are delicate!
3. Protective Styling Helps
Styles like twists, braids, and Bantu knots keep coils stretched and prevent excessive tangling. Plus, they help retain moisture and give you a break from daily styling.
4. Wash with Care
Sulfate shampoos? No thanks. They strip too much moisture. Use a gentle, moisturizing shampoo or a co-wash to keep your hair clean without drying it out.
5. Sleep Smart
Cotton pillowcases suck up moisture and cause friction, leading to dryness and frizz. A satin or silk bonnet, scarf, or pillowcase keeps your coils intact while you sleep.
6. Trim When Needed
Coils can hide split ends, but they’re still there! Trim regularly to prevent breakage and keep your hair looking healthy.
With the right care, coils can thrive—bouncy, soft, and full of life.